Larkbarrow Corner Stone Setting is a square shaped setting (fourth stone broken off at ground level) with a flat stone in the middle. It is the only group of stones I have seen on Exmoor on an improved pasture where the sheep graze all the grass.
Larkbarrow Corner Stone Setting
It has survived well considering it's on more intensive farmland rather than open moor.
The ruins of this isolated farm were used for firing practice during World War II. It is surrounded by miles of open, rolling grass moorland, and is one of the best places to experience remoteness and tranquility on Exmoor. A track runs through from Alderman's Barrow or Larkbarrow Corner to Badgworthy Water, and there is open access to this boggy and tussocky terrain.
The romantic sounding 'Larkbarrow' takes its name from a Bronze Age burial mound - Lark Barrow - now almost completely destroyed, which stood some 300 metres south-west of Larkbarrow Corner. In the seventeenth century this mound was one of the principal markers of the boundary of the former Royal Forest. In the nineteenth century the name transferred to the newly-built farmhouse, now itself also almost completely lost, over a kilometre away to the north.
The ornithological prefix may have also inspired 'Plover's Barrows Farm', the home of John Ridd, in Blackmore's romantic novel, Lorna Doone.
The historic landscape around Larkbarrow is exceptional. It reveals some 5000 years of human history, and in many ways encapsulates most of the significant historic aspects of Exmoor's moorlands.
The modern visitor approaches across wild moorland from the south along the old farm track, and suddenly comes upon grass fields and old stone field banks set within the surrounding moorland. These, and the tracks, quarries, field irrigation systems, peat cuttings, sheepfolds and old mining remains testify to the reclamation and improvement of this area (and thousands of acres of the former Royal Forest) in the mid nineteenth century by the Knight family.
As part of their enterprise even the construction of a railway was begun to link Simonsbath with Porlock, and a 'Larkbarrow Halt' may have been envisaged not far from here.
Two farmhouses were built: Larkbarrow and Tom's Hill, as well as a worker's house, Larkbarrow Cottage (some 300 metres west of Larkbarrow). Larkbarrow Farm was built in the 1840s and by 1850 was let to James Meadows from Leicestershire. The farming enterprise was ambitious and even included dairy farming, with 'excellent' Stilton cheese being produced. After this, however, in view of the extreme altitude and climate, there was a more realistic reversion to sheep ranching. By the early 1900s Larkbarrow "farmhouse had become a 'hunting and shooting box' (a retreat in wet weather), although Larkbarrow Cottage continued in use. It was here, in July 1923, that one of the occupants, Will Little, was struck by lightening and killed on his way home from haymaking at nearby Warren Farm.
In the early 1940s the whole area was taken over for military training purposes. The farmhouses were used for artillery practice with the result that the buildings were all badly damaged by the end of WWII. Both the farmhouses at Larkbarrow and Tom's Hill are now simply piles of stone and wall footings. These wartime activities have themselves contributed to the character of the place: on Elsworthy (1 kilometre south of Larkbarrow Farm) are the remains of a temporary observation post from where the target practice could be seen), whilst the area around Larkbarrow farmhouse is peppered with shell holes.
The most elusive archaeological remains date from the prehistoric period. By far the earliest remains were found in 1956 a few metres east of Larkbarrow farmhouse, and take the form of worked flints probably some 5-6000 years old - they are now in Taunton Museum. The entire landscape also bears witness to activity during the Bronze Age (3-4000 years ago), with a number of burial mounds (including Lark Barrow itself), standing stones, the remains of prehistoric fields and settlements. These remains are so elusive that it was as recent as January 2001 that two standing stones were found on the moors north of Larkbarrow farmhouse during survey work carried out for Exmoor National Park Authority by English Heritage.
To visit Larkbarrow: use Ordnance Survey Outdoor Leisure 9. Park in the layby 400 metres north-east of Larkbarrow Corner (at SS 828 418) and take the track northwards for 1 km and then westwards for 500 metres to the remains of the farmhouse. The area is high (around 1200 feet above sea level), remote and the walking is arduous. Be prepared for rapid changes in weather and temperature.
OS Grid Reference: SS823410
Near Larkbarrow Corner at GR821416 lies a small plaque set into a wall which reads 'In loving memory Harry Quick (1908 - 1978)
In loving memory Harry Quick (1908 - 1978)
Near Larkbarrow Corner at GR821416 lies a small plaque set into a wall which reads 'In loving memory Harry Quick (1908 - 1978)'
Starting from Cattle Grid OS 835 423 just before Alderman’s Barrow opposite the Dunkery signpost if you take the bridleway marked Doone Valley 3.5 miles Malmsmead 6 miles then after about two or three hundred yards you approach the first gate and to your left you will see a strange embankment running along the strike of the hill. These are the remnants of the old tram line that was built to take iron ore from Simonsbath to Ralegh’s Cross and from there down the Incline to the coast.
If you carry on then you will reach the old Larkbarrow farm ruins amidst a clump of trees. This group of beech trees was planted in 1820 to afford the farmstead some protection in this exposed area. The land hereabouts was formerly the property of English kings. This was not a forest of trees but open moorland used for summer grazing, hunting and at Warren Farm, rabbit breeding. The Crown disposed of the land to wealthy industrialist John Knight in 1818. The farmsteads of Tom’s Hill, Larkbarrow, Warren and others were created by his son Frederic and thus began the reclamation of the moorland.
Larkbarrow farmhouse survived until World War Two when the area became an artillery range. For those of a nervous disposition, shelling has long desisted! This is a wonderful spot for a picnic.
Larkbarrow Farm House
Larkbarrow Farm House
Around Larkbarrow there are some rather special gate latches.They have a little circle for you to put your riding crop in to lift them up, and they slam shut naturally.
Bridlepath - Special Latch
A little further on one will see the ruins of Larkbarrow Cottage. It was here that Will Little, a Scottish shepherd, was tragically killed after returning from a day haymaking at Warren farm. The hay had to be abandoned due to a storm and Will Little wended his way home, driving two cattle before him. Within sight of his home he was struck by lightning and died on the spot. A funeral procession left the cottage, six bearers on horseback leading the way. Lord Fortescue’s market cart was brought into service as a hearse. Pony traps followed, carrying the mourners to his final resting place in Simonsbath.
The ruins of Larkbarrow Cottage
On Tom’s Hill the more adventurous walker may wish to drop down off the track over Long Combe and find one of Exmoor’s hidden secrets down in the folds below. Here lies East Pinford Stell, an extremely rare example of a stone built sheep fold, an idea brought to Exmoor by a Scottish shepherd. Please respect this wonderful piece of Exmoor archaeology by looking and not touching.
East Pinford Stell a stone built sheep fold - the circle in the centre of the picture
East Pinford Stell a stone built sheep fold - the stone wall with the entrance beside the tree
East Pinford Stell a stone built sheep fold - the stone wall with the entrance beside the tree
Set in to the inside wall of East Pinford Stell stone sheep shelter
It reads GSS 1918 - 1996
Set in to the inside wall of East Pinford Stell stone sheep shelter
It reads MM 1911 - 1996
Some 8,000 years ago, the hills around Larkbarrow Farm were covered with trees and shrub and occupied in the summer months by hunter gatherers who visited and lived in and around Exmoor, exploiting its natural resources in order to survive. Flint tools have been found around Larkbarrow dating from 6000 and 8000 years ago left by hunter gatherers.
Larkbarrow Farm was put up in 1846 during the second phase of building by the Knight family and was let first of all to 'old Farmer Hayes of Exford' who continued to live at Exford and run Larkbarrow from there, perhaps wisely, since he gave up the tenancy after only two years.
In 1849 Larkbarrow Farm was let to James Meadows of Leicestershire who began clearing the ground for roots and rotation grasses and, rumour has it, even a crop of wheat. A fine Stilton-style cheese produced from his herd of Red Devons gained a rapid reputation for excellence but his success was short-lived. Meadows persevered until 1852 when he admitted defeat and gave up the tenancy. Frederic Knight was soon to recognise the
unsuitability of Exmoor for lowland styles of farming and by the later 1860s sheep ranching had been re-introduced across much of the high moorland. Scottish Blackface sheep were run on the Larkbarrow herding, tended during the 1860s and '70s by William and Adam Dunn from Northumberland, then by the Scottish shepherd Thomas Graham, and later by members of the Little family living at Tom's Hill nearby. By this time the estate had been sold to the Fortescue family who continued the run sheep (Cheviots) on the open moor.
From 1898, the Larkbarrow farmhouse was let as a hunting and shooting box together with extensive sporting rights over the moor. It was perhaps occupied in this way in the 1920s when the late Mr Archie Galliford of Barnstaple, when out walking on the moor, called at the house to ask for a glass of milk and was astonished to be received by a butler in frock coat and white gloves!
Larkbarrow continued to be let for hunting or holidays until World War Two when the farm and Tom's Hill were requisitioned and most of the buildings were destroyed. American soldiers, camped nearby on Gallon House allotment and with little to do, used the farmhouse for target practice. The ground was finally cleared of ammunition in the 1980s when Exmoor National Park Authority bought Larkbarrow Farm intending to conserve, rather than improve, the land, and open it up for public access. |
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